Many options exist that effect stall function, but all have the potential to influence safety. Clutter blocks free passage or could spook a horse, and anything that hangs from the walls can entrap a hoof.
Hay nets hung high in stall walls drop dust into the horse’s eyes and nose, and can become tangled in front feet. Minis and small ponies benefit from a low stall door in the front so they can look around, which reduces boredom and bad habits.
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Safety First: Choosing Non-Slip Flooring for Horse Stalls
Safety is paramount when selecting flooring for your Horses Stall. This article focuses on non-slip flooring options, discussing materials like rubber, textured concrete, and specialized coatings. Find out how to prioritize the safety of your horse and prevent accidents caused by slippery surfaces.
Material
The stall walls must be sturdy so the horse can’t kick through them. The gap beneath doors or partition bars should be less than three inches to prevent the horse from getting his foot caught. Wood boards should be capped with metal fittings that discourage chewing and splintering portable horse stalls. Stall windows should be six feet high and four feet wide and should be covered by a grate or something similar to prevent the horse from using it as a “handle” to escape the stall.
The flooring should be safe and comfortable for the horse, whether popcorn asphalt, clay, dirt or crushed stone. Concrete is a popular choice, but it has no give and can cause injury to the horse’s legs unless mats are placed on top of it.
If you choose to use a cross-tie system, it should have light-duty panic snaps or string “fuses” that will break if a horse pulls hard. Make sure the ties are positioned so a horse can’t flip over backward and get seriously injured. Lighting should be recessed to avoid shadows that can conceal dangerous objects or equipment in the barn.
Doors
The door to the stall must be strong enough to support a horse’s weight when closed. Wooden doors should be covered with metal fittings that discourage chewing and won’t splinter when the horse rubs them. The bottom of the stall door should be solid but have enough space to allow airflow without risking a horse’s foot getting stuck in the gap.
Our team almost always recommends sliding doors for both safety and efficiency reasons. They eliminate the concern of a swinging door accidentally hitting another horse or moving due to wind and make it easier for you to clean your barn.
Some stalls have partition bars set too far apart, which can allow a horse to kick through them and suffer serious injuries. Choosing a pre-fabricated stall with bars that are tightly spaced will help prevent this. Some stalls also have hay racks mounted high on the wall, which drop dust into a horse’s eyes and nose and can cause a choking hazard. A low wooden hay bunker or a hung hay net that can be lowered to the floor minimizes hay waste but still allows the horse to paw at it without getting hooves caught.
Walls
Stall walls can be constructed from wood or a kick-proof material, which helps prevent serious injuries. Metal walls can be dangerous if the horse kicks them, and they may rust and develop sharp edges that could rip skin or catch on equipment or halters.
Many barns choose to keep stall fronts partially solid in order to allow for interaction and reduce the feeling of isolation. However, a stall wall that is not fully solid can allow the horse to clamber or rear up on it. This could lead to serious injury if the horse is unsteady on his feet.
For this reason, it is a good idea to have a full-length door that opens into the aisle or is latched open. Stall windows are also useful, but they should be well-secured to prevent the horse from breaking or pushing the window through. It is also a good idea to use a grate over the window so that the horse cannot stick his head through it. In addition, the stall floor should be padded or matted. This will provide some shock absorption for the horse’s joints and protect him from cold surfaces that can cause stiffness.
Hay Racks & Feeders
Stall feeders and hay racks should be stationed high enough to prevent a rearing horse from getting hung up on them. For the average sized horse, eight feet is a good height. This also means that lighting over a stall and any other equipment that is above the stall needs to be high enough to keep a rearing horse from being able to reach it.
Bar partitions can make stalls brighter and increase ventilation, but the space between bars should be small enough to keep a horse from sticking its head or hooves through them if it rears. It’s also a good idea to install a stall window in every stall and eave and ridge vents to enhance fresh air exchange.
Regular thorough inspections are important for a horse’s health and safety. Look for any nails sticking out, broken boards, sharp edges and places where a horse could get a foot stuck. Also pay attention to how feed and water buckets are hung. They should be easy to remove and clean and have a smooth, safe design.
Lighting
A horse in a stall for an extended period of time can pick up some microscopic health hazards, especially at shows and camp facilities. The best way to prevent them is to spray the stall with a safe disinfectant before the horse enters it.
Stall walls should be wood or other kick-proof material to prevent a horse from injuring itself on the corners or sides. Gaps between partitions or doors should be no wider than three inches to prevent a horse from getting its head or feet caught.
Electric fixtures in a stall should be positioned along the front or side walls instead of directly overhead to decrease shadows and allow for better observation. The fixture should be a 100W incandescent or fluorescent type and housed in a cage to keep rodents from chewing the wires and causing a fire hazard.
Stall latches should retract completely; a projecting latch can injure a horse or person. Crossties should be light-duty panic snaps or string “fuses” to keep a horse from pulling back and hurting itself.